Along the New England Coast

 

 

Along the rocky coast of Maine, eclectic towns of Cape Cod, the old homes in Mystic, CT, and along the shores of New Jersey, this portion of our trip has been filled with both surprises and comfort.

We set sail from Nova Scotia by the way of a car ferry over to New Brunswick. Leaving early in the morning there was a fog which thickly engulfing all, difficult to see any of the sights of the Turo, NS harbor. Several miles out, the fog lifted and we had great visibility. For awhile, the shoreline of NS was still visible, but soon the ship was all alone traversing the Bay of Fundy. As mentioned in an earlier post, these waters see some of the greatest variation in tide heights as anywhere on this globe. Deep gorges carved out by the glaciers, allow for waters to rush in, pushing ahead of it great schools of sea life. Upon the change to low tide, these creatures are left upon the marsh land for fisherman to harvest, along with capture by nets and traps. These waters offer a wealth of excellent tasting morsels.

Once in the states, we motored down US 1 along the coast of Maine. Friends had warned us of the difficulty in using this route in a large motorhome. Tossing caution to the winds of chance, we began the journey. Parts of the road, while two lanes, and are wide offering wide shoulders. Then suddenly the road changes to a narrow, rough lane that certainly has not benefited from any road work funded by the Recovery and Reinvestment Act. Now I have driven the famed Mexican Route 1 down the Baja, this US 1 rivals that namesake in many respects, demanding the up most concentration from a driver. Our home for a week was near Belfast, ME.

We took a day and drove to Arcadia National Park – just a day ahead of the visit by President Obama. The park, especially at the top of Cadillac Mountain offer sweeping vistas of the bays, islands and out toward the Atlantic. The tourist village of Bar Harbor offer the usual suspects of shops, ice cream stands, restaurants and lodgings. We are lovers of old homes – especially those from the mid to late 19^th century – sadly the great fire of 1947 destroyed most of those older buildings. So we looked at a number of mid-century homes and those faux Victorian constructions.

On another day we traveled toward Camden and Rockland. Both the type of Maine fishing ports made for the postcard photos. In my quest to sample all of different types of New England clam chowder (or Chowdah as the natives are to say) I enjoyed my version of a “pub crawl” along the way. During this trip, the chowders have ranged from a thin milk based soup with a variety of fish, through the thicker base with potatoes, fish, shrimp, mussels, oysters, etc… and along the way the shift to a tomato base ‘Manhattan” format. My favorite is the thicker, New England style featuring a wide range of sea food.

Moving on down the coast, we headed for a week on Cape Cod. After an overnight at the Elks Club in Hyannis, MA, we traveled up to Turo. Located near the upper tip, and a few miles from Provincetown, the location offers lots to see. As we discovered, what is now P-town, was the point of the first landing of the Pilgrims. In 1620, the Pilgrims signed the Mayflower Compact when they arrived at the harbor. They agreed to settle and build a self-governing community, and then came ashore in the West End. Though the Pilgrims chose to settle across the bay in Plymouth, Provincetown enjoyed an early reputation for its fishing grounds. P-town offers a wide variety of shops, restaurants, old homes and of course the night life as expected in a tourist mecca favored by a healthy “gay” group. We found it a wonderful village in which to walk, look and enjoy the sights. Other days found us driving along a variety of roads, stopping at lighthouses, farm stands, and a couple of the villages along the roadway. Referring to the roadway, here we began to see one of my favorite roadside cautions signs: “Thickly Settled” – many times followed by a series of 5-8 homes along the road. Oh those New Englanders.

Of greatest joy was the meeting of a family at the campground. This was one of those wonderful dysfunctional families that you just love – the grandfather having his morning corn flakes while sipping a beer. We were taken in as part of that family. Once we were off to the national park beach where we rode in their pickup along in the sand and enjoyed a wonderful afternoon playing with Kona in the ocean. Another evening we joined them for a bonfire, music and large amounts of various adult beverages. This was a joyful time.

Then it was off to Mystic, CT for several days. On an afternoon, we boarded a schooner and sailed off to relish skimming across the waters, powered only by the wind. How glorious is the feeling of wind, sun and water. Mystic Seaport Museum is a faithful reproduction of an old seaport, with stores, school, church, homes and the wealth of shops that would support ship building. The downtown area sports many different shops and eateries. Yes, there is the Mystic Pizza – serving up a “slice of heaven.”

We dined at two different places that represented both ends of the spectrum when it comes to food. The best choice was a great restaurant with large windows facing the river and all of the boat traffic. I had a cup of great chowder (of course I needed to try) and a piece of shark, which was grilled, and coated, with an assortment of spices – great! Barb went for the fish and chips – also quite good. The second night we tried a “crab shack” along the side of the road that always seem to have lots of customers. Everything was deep fried – even something called “crab balls” that were tennis ball size globs of dough, with a hint of crab meet and then deep fried. One small bite and that was all. Sitting at an outdoor picnic table, sipping a local beer were the highlights of this dining experience.

The Jersey shore beckoned. Port Republic is just 20 miles or so north of Atlantic City. We stayed at PR for a week, taking time to go into Atlantic City to see the sites, the boardwalk, a lighthouse and some time on the beach. Near by was a small village – Smithville – that offered a collection of old buildings turned into art galleries, clothing shops and one killer bakery. While there, we had one of our first run-ins with dreaded “green head fly” – a fly that bites, and bites, and ……. Daytime it was OK, but with evening time the insects would come using a battle plan designed by those birds in Alfred Hitchcock’s film of the same name.

One day we drove down to Cape May. Now Barb has always wanted to see the town, and those beautiful “old painted ladies” along the seaside. We toured the town, the old lighthouse and some very interesting cement towers that were used as watchtowers during WWII. Finally we turned onto the road by the beach, and those old painted ladies. But what – they have been turned into condos, apartments, summer rentals – not the single family dwellings of Barb’s dream … life dreams met reality.

When we left NJ by way of the Cape May – Lewes ferry we encounter a father and son who were running and biking from Maine to Florida in support of American Cancer Society. Their goal is to go about 50 -70 miles each day, quite an undertaking especially in the heat of summer. If you wish to follow their journey here is a link to their blog site: http://wickedlongrun.blogspot.com

Virginia will be our next stop, then to the outer banks of NC.

Nova Scotia

Our travels took us to Nova Scotia, for a week in the Cape Breton area and in week down in Digby. While in the Cape Breton area, we drove the famed scenic Cabot Trail around the cape. One sees pictures of a stunning road hugging the side of the land, cutting through a forest dipping toward the blue of the sea.

Now comes full disclosure – that section of road, about 3 miles is the only portion out of 100 miles of the drive that is stunning. Most of the roadway is cluttered with shops, restaurants, whale watching concessions, fishing villages, and more shops. Those sections that are within the National Park, are travels through forests, nice but not spectacular. We have driven; the PCH between LA and Carmel, CA – several times in both directions, traversed the Icefield Parkway along the spine of the Canadian Rockies between Banff and Jasper, even twisted along the Amalfi coast between Sorrento to Postitano. Sadly the Cabot Trail pales in comparison.

Of most fun on the Cabot Trail came close to the end. Around a bend in the road, one comes upon a field of scarecrows. Not your run of the mill, Wizard of Oz type of scarecrow, but ones that have distinct characters. We spent 20 walking around looking at all the characters, including several past Presidents of the U.S.

Moving down to Digby, on the Bay of Fundy, was a smart choice. This is the home of those famous Digby scallops. They are sweet, and whether lightly sautéed, breaded, or grilled these are great morsels of delights. The Bay of Fundy is famous for having the greatest change in tide height. Note the two photos of the same wharf, one at low tide and then the same at high tide.

While in the area, we motored up to Annapolis Royal, the site of Fort Anne. At the center of any garrison town stands its fort. And Fort Anne has been the center of Annapolis Royal since 1634. This was the year that Charles de Menou D'Aulnay erected the first of four forts to be built on this piece of land. To walk along those earthen embankments as did both French and British soldiers, looking out to the bay, watching for incoming vessels, gives one a sense of history.

An unexpected treat in the town was the discovery of a German bakery housed in a Victorian home. Coffee with a delicious poppy seed roll was a wonderful way to end the visit. The town has a stunning collection of Queen Anne and Victorian homes, many turned into bed and breakfast establishments. Certainly the town merits a return visit.

We finished our last two days here in the Digby area by staying in our RV waiting for the two days constant rain and fog to cease. But hey, we are in the Maritime Providences, and the temps are cool. Tomorrow we leave by ferry across the Bay of Fundy to St. John and then to Belfast, Maine.

Prince Edward Island

Our first venture to the Canadian Maritimes, a region of Eastern Canada consisting of three provinces: New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward Island, have quickly taught us that a return visit is needed. PEI is a wonderful collection of French, English and Scottish influences.

There is a great collection of small towns, rolling countryside and farms. It would seem, to the casual visitor that every crossroads offers a wonderful white painted church with the tall steeple. There are some more elaborate church buildings including that wonderful Our Lady of Mont-Carmel built of stone on the cliff overlooking the Atlantic during the early 1900’s.

Along the way we were told of a series of small building that were built with glass bottles; beer bottles, wine, whiskey – all colors, shapes and sizes. Sure enough, there they were, including a small church with pews and an altar, all made from glass bottles.

One bit of information, PEI produces more potatoes than Maine or even Idaho. There is a collection of farms, dairies, and fishing villages with roads that form a latticework on the island. The great item we discovered were the Provincial Parks on the island. These “state” parks are in great locations, offer electric, water, sewer [sorry no Wi-Fi], and are very inexpensive. What gems!

We took a day to travel to Charlottetown, the Provincial capital, another to travel along the north shore and Anne of Green Gables area; a third day it was off to the Arcadian (French) section. We dined on fresh seafood, discovered a restaurant that had been designated “One of 10 Best New Restaurant in Canada” located just 10 minutes from our campground.

Located in a village of 12 houses, 1 restaurant and 2 fish markets, this restaurant was a gem. I have never been a fan of mussels – until I had them here. Even in a “salad” of mussels with a cream sauce, these bivalve creatures are as fresh as the crisp waters in which they live. Selections of haddock, halibut and oysters were all wonderfully prepared. Is this an ad – you bet!

Keene, VT and a Reunion

One of the joys of a life in education is to watch the growth and success of your students. Tom Cook and his wife Kelly Todd Cook were part of the theatre experiences at Warren Central HS a number of years ago.

After earning a degree in film / television in LA then working in the industry, he came to Keene State College and is now professor in the Film Studies Program. Kelly is a pharmacist for CVS in Keene. While at WCHS, Tom was always writing, involved with theatre / radio / video production.

He still has the love of media and the joy from teaching. This is the real joy for those of us who have been in education.

We enjoyed both lunch – at a restaurant named STAGE [how appropriate] and then a tour of Keene State.

The Shelburne Museum

These are some photos from the museum. Photos cannot do justice to the expanse and items for viewing.

Lake Champlain and Vermont

Burlington, VT on the shores of Lake Champlain is a great city, with several treasures. Of course near is the home of Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream, Stowe Skiing area, the Von Trapp Family Inn, and the amazing Shelburne Museum. Shelburne Museum is one of the country's most diverse museums of paintings, folk art, quilts and textiles, and New England history. The museum is a collection of buildings, methods of transportation, and items from life in early Vermont. . The museum, which covers acres of countryside are buildings from the early life, i.e. a one room school building, blacksmith shop, a three level round barn, all taken apart then reconstructed on site.

Among what one finds there is a side wheel paddle boat that cruised Lake Champlain a hundred years ago, a collection of wood carvings that depict a circus parade, that to scale, represents what would be over two miles in length. Many items based upon wagons, animals and artist that were part of famous circus of the day; Clyde Beatty, Sells Floto, and Ringling Brothers Barnum and Bailey circuses. These were carved to the scale of one inch to one foot. What colors, details and imagination in those works

Electra Havemeyer the patron of this collection married an heir to the Vanderbilt family fortune and brought to their union her family wealth which came from The Sugar Trust, which in the early 1900’s controlled 98% of the sugar harvesting and refinement. Clearly funding was not an issue, and when you see the recreation of several rooms taken directly from their Park Avenue Townhouse and plunked down inside a faux Georgian Home exterior.

Next time in the area, be sure to visit this unbelievable collection of Americana.